When we hear "acid", many of us think of something strong that burns. But azelaic acid is one of the gentlest actives in skincare, which is why it has become a favourite in Korean serums and toners. Let's get to know it.
What is azelaic acid?
Azelaic acid is an acid found naturally in grains such as wheat and barley. In cosmetics it is used at specific percentages, usually combined with hydrating and soothing ingredients.
It's different from the well-known exfoliating acids (AHA/BHA): it isn't mainly a "peel". It's more of a multi-tool for skin that needs balance.
Why we love it
- A more even tone: it helps skin look brighter and more uniform, which we love for the marks blemishes leave behind.
- Less visible redness: many formulas pair it with soothing ingredients, for skin that looks calmer.
- A clearer look: it helps with the look of pores and shine, so it suits combination and oily skin.
- Gentle: it's usually well tolerated even by more sensitive skin, especially in Korean formulas with low percentages.
Who is it for?
If your skin has marks from old blemishes, flushes easily or gets shiny in the T-zone, azelaic acid is worth a try. It also suits anyone who wants an "active" step in their routine but doesn't get along with stronger acids or retinol.
How to add it to your routine
The easiest way to try it is as a serum or toner, after cleansing.
Serum: the Anua Azelaic Acid 10+ Hyaluron Redness Soothing Serum combines azelaic acid with hyaluronic acid, for hydration and a calmer look. If you like a bit of soft coverage, see the Medicube Azelaic Acid 10 BB Soothing Serum.
Toner: for a light first step, the Medicube Azelaic Acid Niacinamide Clear Toner pairs azelaic acid with niacinamide, a favourite combo for a clear, balanced look.
You'll find more options in our Serum & Ampoule collection.
A simple plan to start
- Weeks 1–2: use it every other evening.
- Weeks 3–4: if your skin feels comfortable, move to daily use.
- After that: use it morning or night, whatever suits you.
A light tingle the first few times can be normal. But if you feel strong stinging or see redness that doesn't go away, stop using it.
What it pairs with (and what to watch)
Works beautifully with: niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, centella and ceramides, in other words most hydrating and soothing ingredients.
Take care: if you already use retinol or exfoliating acids, don't start everything on day one. Use them on different evenings and see how your skin reacts.
Don't forget sunscreen
When you're working towards a more even tone, sunscreen is your best friend. Without daily protection, marks and dark spots have a hard time fading. Pick a light SPF50 from our sunscreens and apply it every morning, even on cloudy days.
Quick questions
Is it suitable for sensitive skin? Often yes, which is why we suggest it to anyone who finds exfoliating acids too strong. Always start slowly.
When will I see results? An even tone takes patience: give it at least 6–8 weeks of consistent use, together with daily sunscreen.
Morning or night? Both. If you use it in the morning, always follow with sunscreen.
Can I wear make-up over it? Yes. Wait a minute or two for it to absorb, apply cream and sunscreen, then your make-up.
Before you start
Always do a patch test for 24–48 hours on a small area before applying it to your whole face. Cosmetics with azelaic acid don't replace treatments. If you have severe acne, rosacea or another skin condition, or if you are pregnant or breastfeeding, talk to your dermatologist first.
With a little patience and consistency, azelaic acid can become the quiet secret of your routine. 💗